11 September 2025

New blood to take on Moruya icon The River

| By Lucy Ridge
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Oysters on rock salt with a fingerlime garnish.

The new River Moruya menu will use local seafood. Photo: Peter Jones-Best.

The River Moruya has been sold, marking a new chapter for the long-running restaurant.

Peter Compton owned and ran the beloved institution for 18 years. Now, a new team is taking the reins and promising to reinvigorate the iconic South Coast restaurant.

Restaurateur Peter Jones-Best spent his early years in Moruya before heading to Sydney and pursuing a career in hospitality. He returned to the South Coast with chef Todd Milne to head up the team at the newly renovated Punt House at Batemans Bay in 2024.

They were looking to buy something local when a friend told them The River was for sale.

“It was too good an opportunity to pass up! It’s an iconic restaurant. I’ve eaten here a number of times over the years,” Peter told Region.

“Peter [Compton] has done a long slog. Eighteen years in hospitality is no joke, so he’s looking at a well-earned break.”

Peter and Todd join chef Anthony O’Shea as business partners in the restaurant.

Peter Compton wearing black and a chef's apron stands next to a silver sign reading "The River Moruya" in blue flowing text.

Peter Compton announced the sale of the restaurant in May; new owners opened the doors on Thursday 21 August. Photo: The River/Facebook.

While The River previously focussed on a model of classic French fine dining, the new team is moving towards a more contemporary and approachable style of service.

Customers can expect a Modern Australian menu focussed on coastal flavours, fresh seafood and local produce.

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“Our executive chef Anthony O’Shea has worked all over Australia in the past three years so he’s got a really well-rounded approach,” Peter said.

“We’re taking that legacy of local produce and sprinkling in a few different influences like Middle Eastern and Asian techniques – but really focussing on seafood.”

Produce will be sourced locally – Tuross Lake oysters, seafood from Narooma and Ulladulla, and market greens from the SAGE garden just down the road in Moruya.

Interior of The River restaurant.

The River Moruya. Photo: The River Moruya/Instagram.

The restaurant interior hasn’t changed much, but the team is hoping to spruce up the outdoor garden spaces and perhaps use them for events or casual summer dining pop-ups.

Now the partners have started to settle in and tested the waters with their new food menu, Peter said they would be looking to introduce more cocktails to the drinks list.

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“We’ll be working on our drinks service with a few more cocktails for pre-dinner drinks,” he said.

“I’d love to do a little martini trolley during service and we’ll be chatting to Foxdog Distillery up at Mogo about using some of their gins for martinis. Their samphire gin would be great in a coastal martini.”

The wine list will also highlight a few local drops from Canberra, the Southern Highlands and the South Coast, as well as lesser-known varietals including Fiano and Nebbiolo which pair well with food.

Drinks being poured at the bar.

The new owners of The River are hoping to collaborate with local producers and makers, including Foxdog Distillery in Mogo. Photo: Foxdog Distillery.

Peter said he and his wife are now well and truly settled in the area, raising their family. And he’s had some nostalgic moments bumping into old school teachers in the street.

“We love chatting with our customers and getting to know the locals. We just opened last night and most people coming through the door have been here before. We’ve had some really lovely feedback.

“This is such a great little space, it’s just looking for some new blood and new energy.”

The River Moruya at 16b Church St, Moruya is open for lunch Wednesday to Sunday from 12 to 2 pm, dinner Thursday to Saturday 6 pm until late. Visit the website or follow The River Moruya on Instagram.

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