The old shearers’ quarters at Barwang in the Hilltops wine region have been revived, restored and recently opened as a cellar door for the historic Moppity Road winery. Photo: Barwang.
A new chapter has begun for one of the Hilltops region’s most iconic and historically significant vineyards.
Barwang – a name long associated with premium wines and rich viticultural heritage – has officially opened its doors to the public, putting a proud stake in the ground for the Hilltops region and marking a return to its pastoral and community roots.
Set within a lovingly restored shearers’ cottage, the new Barwang Cellar Door, near Young, offers visitors more than just a tasting – it’s an experience that blends rustic charm, panoramic views and the warm hospitality of the land’s sixth-generation custodians, Wendy and James Bowman.
Since acquiring the 400-hectare property in late 2021, the Bowmans have been steadily reviving the Barwang name, with the cellar door always the centrepiece of their vision.
Recycled materials feature prominently in the fitout, and the building retains its original charm with updated amenities – a marble-topped tasting island, an intimate lounge area and wide verandas perfect for sipping wine while soaking up the countryside.
For Wendy, preserving Barwang’s vineyard history was crucial to their journey.
A journey that spans more than five decades.
Barwang was established in 1969 by the Robertson family, quickly earning a reputation for quality in a region not yet widely known for wine.
Over the years, the vineyard changed hands, most notably to the McWilliam family, one of Australia’s oldest and most respected winemaking dynasties.
Under their stewardship, Barwang gained national and international recognition, racking up more than 1000 medals at wine shows and a 5 Red Star rating from wine critic James Halliday.
But as the industry faced headwinds in recent years – from export tariffs to shifting consumer trends – Barwang, like many wineries, began to fade from the spotlight.
That’s when the neighbours, the Bowmans, stepped in.
Having watched the vines grow just over the fence from their own property, they understood the vineyard’s potential and saw an opportunity not just to preserve its legacy but to reinvigorate it.
“These foothills of the Great Dividing Range offer some of the very best-quality farmland in Australia,” James said.
”Certainly our pastures fatten top-quality lambs and cattle and produce high-yield grain. So it’s no wonder grapes thrive on our rolling hills.”
Since taking over, the Bowmans have relaunched the Barwang wine portfolio, starting in 2023 with six estate-grown, single-varietal wines – including Barwang Impromptu Sparkling Chardonnay, Rosé, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon – all dressed in Barwang’s striking royal blue and white-label livery.
In 2024, they added a pinot noir to the collection, sourced from new plantings on cooler vineyard slopes as they celebrated the news they’d been named a finalist in the Young Guns of Wine Vineyard of the Year awards – alongside Hilltops stablemate Freeman Vineyards – and among the Top Value Australian Wines by the Real Review.
Under the guidance of vineyard manager Scott Douglas and winemaker Andrew Higgins, Barwang is embracing a low-intervention approach that honours the site’s unique natural environment replete with the dry, high-altitude soils that naturally limit yields and concentrate flavour.
Locals have taken notice.
At the recent official cellar door opening, Member for Cootamundra Steph Cooke cut the blue baling twine to mark the occasion, full of praise for the commitment and optimism shown by the Bowmans.
“Australia’s wine sector has been experiencing turbulent times, which have also had some impact on vignerons in both the NSW Hilltops and Riverina,” Ms Cooke said.
“It is so encouraging to see families like the Bowmans act counter-cyclically, investing with foresight in our region that boasts a long wine heritage and a growing reputation for its world-class wines.”
For the Bowmans, though, it’s not just about wine – it’s about place.
The rejuvenated Barwang estate remains a working farm, with cattle and sheep grazing among native tree plantings and spring-fed dams.
This balance of agriculture and viticulture reflects the couple’s deep connection to the land and their belief in preserving it for future generations.
Visitors can now experience that harmony firsthand.
Barwang’s Cellar Door is open by appointment. To book a tasting or learn more, visit www.barwangwines.com.au or contact Wendy Bowman on 0417 362 586 or at [email protected].
