Sixth generation farmer now heads up Hilltops Wine

Young farmer James Bowman reckons if you’d told him four years ago he’d add viticulture to his farming portfolio, he’d have laughed in your face.

“That wasn’t even on my radar,” he said, “the most I knew about wine was probably Spumante and Passion Pop, even when I walked into a bottle shop I’d pick what was on special.”

When they purchased neighbouring land on the Moppity Road, east of Young, in 2021, the sixth generation farmer and his wife Wendy were starkly aware that about 100 of the 1000 arable acres, mostly upper slopes and crowns of hills, were dedicated to grape-growing.

“At first we thought, this is not our game we’ll pull it out, but then we actually found out how strong the Hilltops region was for grapes. We thought, hang on, once it’s gone, that’s it, so we decided to give it a go,” James said.

They also knew it wasn’t just any vineyard.

“Barwang” was once the province of the Robertson family headed by pioneering Peter Robertson who, as part of a diversification program, first planted around 30 acres of vine stock on the undulating hills in 1969.

By 1974 he’d set up a winery in an old barn, producing his first Cabernet Sauvignon by reading a book on winemaking. This would win a silver medal at the Canberra Wine Show.

The success of the “Barwang” wines would escalate with regional, state and national awards, sometimes shocking judges who had never heard of the place. That certainly was vindicated when one of Australia’s biggest wine producers – McWilliams – purchased the property from the Robertsons in 1989, to meet the growing demand for top-quality table wines.

Back then what was loosely known as the “Hilltops” region was still considered the middle of nowhere, but there was a realisation that out of the original gold bearing soil that first attracted settlement, was gold in the premium grape varieties that sprang from its cool growing and ripening climate.

Under McWilliams, “Barwang” would go on to win more than 1000 medals at Australian and international wine shows and gain recognition as 5 Red Star winery – an honour only bestowed on three per cent of Australian wineries – by respected wine writer James Halliday.

“Of course we knew the history of Barwang, but it wasn’t until we actually secured the property that it really sunk in,” James said.

James said the trajectory to understanding the science of wine production was steep but eased with the knowledge of few district old guards, including local vignerons Brian Freeman of Freeman Vineyards and Brian Mullany of Grove Estate Wines.

Now, alongside their time-honoured traditional mixed farming practices of livestock and crop production, the Bowmans are not only growing grapes but outsourcing the production of single varietal wines under the Barwang label.

“It’s good to have some diversity and obviously like any farming situation it has its ups and downs, but generally the grape side of things actually fits into the farm calendar really well,” James said, “and we can use the vineyard as a paddock for part of the year.”

He now takes on the job of Hilltops Wine president from Brian Mullany, who can remember his first meeting of the Young Vineyards association at “Barwang” in 1988.

“At that meeting it was suggested that the name Hilltops was a more appropriate name for the Vineyards Association as the vineyards were not only located in the Young Shire but also in Harden and Boorowa shires,” Brian said, “and the name Hilltops was used as most of the vineyards were on hilltops mainly as a form of frost protection.”

He congratulated James on taking on the role as president.

James said he was somewhat surprised to be elected to the position.

“I never thought I’d be president of Hilltops Wine, but here I am. What I have come to realise, having not been in the industry, is an appreciation of how highly regarded the Hilltops wine growing region is,” he told Region.

“It doesn’t have the name of the Barossa or the Hunter but it known as one of the best growing regions for grapes in Australia.”

With a worldwide wine glut, James said his focus was on supporting members and associates.

“We’re in a premium area, so we’re a bit lucky that way,” he said.

“Things are looking good out here right now, we’ve managed to escape the frosts so far, and with a bit of timely rain we are well positioned for a good harvest.”