From country pub to luxury hotel. The reinvention of the Grand Old Lady of Eden

With Australia’s drinking culture shifting and our regional centre’s shrinking, in 2010, the Hotel Australasia, in the town of Eden, fell victim to a trend seen all across regional Australia as it served its last drinks.

It would be 12 years before the hotel, once known as the Grand Old Lady of Eden, reopened its doors. In the intervening years the building was sold three times and had two major renovations. Now, 120 years on from when the first bricks were laid in 1904, stands a boutique hotel that oozes luxury.

A full decade of sales and renovations have been well documented by About Regional, but what was on my mind, as I wound my way down the mountain in the unseasonal spring sleet, was what does reinvention look like and does it hold a key for other regional Australian towns that are losing their country pubs at a fast rate.

As with many country pubs that stand proud in the town centres, you can’t miss the Hotel Australasia as you roll into Eden. The crumbling 1950s facade that hid the true face of the Grand Old Lady for too long is finally gone and in its place stands a monumental two-storey brick and wrought iron facade, its double verandas flanked by two perfectly proportioned wings on either end.

Boldly touting on their website that they’re the best accommodation on the South Coast set a high bar in terms of expectations. Holding my breath as I walked through the front door, I desperately wanted them to live up to the claim.

Stepping through the threshold, it doesn’t take long to know there’s been some serious money spent here. Bold heritage colours are the perfect backdrop to dramatic crystal chandeliers. To the left of reception, a deep vermilion drawing room is warmed by a gas flame fireplace and cavernous armchairs beckon you to sit.

Straight ahead, the pattern of the baby blue tiles in reception leads your eye to a grand staircase, lined with rich cerulean carpet that takes you up to the accommodation rooms on the second floor. From the second storey landing each room branches off an art-filled hallway; a dramatic mirror at the end brings some additional light into the moody space.

Having been promptly checked in by an attentive Irishman by the name of Adam we headed for our room. Each of the eight rooms is unique in layout and inclusions and with nightly rates starting at $205, it’s clear that the remote nature of Eden keeps the prices down … or maybe it was the sleet. In any major city, these surroundings would be upwards of $600 a night.

Having chosen the lead-in room type, The Boyd, we were greeted by sumptuous bedding, heavy drapery and a claw-foot bath right next to the bed. From the sash windows, views of the Sapphire coastline with its famous whales can be seen. A nice touch is the included minibar offering snacks and non-alcoholic refreshments.

Not to spoil our dinner with free treats, we headed down to the main bar where heritage touches like the pressed tin ceilings and nods to the building’s past, like the featured lath and plaster art-like installation, contrast the more modern bar arrangement.

Sitting alongside the bar is a large courtyard area with Parisian style cafe chairs. Despite the howling gale, it’s easy to imagine long summer evenings in this space. To the rear of the courtyard there is some construction still ongoing, likely a hangover from a recent legal battle with the former owners. It doesn’t encroach on the main building though and although management seemed reluctant to comment, it will likely resolve itself given a little time.

The tap beers ranged from Great Northern and Carlton Draught to Balter and Stone & Wood and wine by the glass starts at $10 with selections from around Australia, France and New Zealand.

A solid antipasto menu took us through the afternoon with small but sweet Merimbula oysters, moreish finger food like the five spiced honey soy pork belly bites and bowls of marinated olives. The dinner menu primarily consists of Mediterranean inspired dishes like beef tagliata and pasta fungi di bosco but after spying the woodfired pizza oven in the courtyard our decision was made for us.

The Argentinian pizza chef, Rodrigo, mans a sizeable pizza oven emblazoned with the name of the hotel on the front. The pizza menu has eight choices including the family fave, Hawaiian pizza through to more traditional Italian options like quattro formaggi. Choosing the truffled pork pizza with provola cheese and the prosciutto pizza with dollops of gorgonzola cream, we watched Rodrigo work his magic and deftly pull from the depths of the oven two perfectly formed and generously sized pizzas.

At times the service was a little lacking and getting the attention of staff a little frustrating but dispensations can be made knowing the cost of staff and the tight times we live in. The staff, when present, were delightful and always willing to go the extra mile to accommodate our needs. With pubs and restaurants struggling all over the country, minimal staff levels may be what’s required to keep these establishments alive.

The bar and restaurant services both hotel guests and the public. Residents of Eden seemed a little light on during our visit but it may have been the atrocious weather. Management has certainly put in the legwork to bring the locals back. Happy hour runs for two hours every day from Monday to Friday. There’s live music on Fridays and a roast of the day on Sunday, all the hallmarks of a good country pub. Time will tell if Hotel Australasia can embed itself back into the community once more, which is always a challenge in a country town after a period of upheaval. One thing is for sure though, for visitors, it’s a splendid stay.

Rooms at the Hotel Australasia can be booked on their website.