12 May 2026

The charming country town Hamilton Hume never left, and you won’t want to either

| By Tenele Conway
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A pretty courtyard garden with people enjoying a drink.

Yazz Bar, once voted as one of the world’s top 50 wine experiences is a drawcard for the Yass Valley region. Photo: Yassvalley.com.au

First came the Ngunawal and Wiradjuri people seeking tribal lands. Next came Hume, the Australian explorer having pegged it for grazing land in 1821. Then came Queer Eye, the LGBTQ+ makeover TV show, which was drawn to the town based on the dubious coincidence that to the ear it sounded like YAAAAS, the trending way to simply say ‘yes’. And Hollywood recently came with the filming of Apex, the action thiller that will put you off your lunch.

It’s a popular place, Yass, and for many of us, it’s just down the road, making it the antidote to cost-of-living woes when looking for a weekend away.

Full of historic country pubs, a quirky bar with global renown, a socially responsible cafe making a difference and a wine scene worthy of nation-wide envy, isn’t it time that you put Yass on your bucket list?

Yasmin Coe and team at Murrumbateman Chocolate Company

Yasmin Coe and the team at Murrumbateman Chocolate Co. can make your Willy Wonka dreams come true. Photo: Tenele Conway.

A Quick Pit Stop In Murrumbateman

If you’re Yass-bound, it would be a missed opportunity to not stop in Murrumbateman. This region punches well above its weight when it comes to wineries, and most of them offer a cellar door experience that will have you loading the boot with cool-climate wines for the trip home.

Murrumbateman isn’t all about wine though – Shaw Estate has a sleek restaurant for an upmarket lunch, Four Winds Vineyard slings pizzas under a large pergola, Poachers Pantry offers a seasonal menu for inspired country dining, and Murrumbateman Chocolate Co will load you up with one-of-a-kind truffles crafted through collaborations with the neighbouring businesses.

Moving beyond Murrumbateman deeper into the Yass Valley, the real country weekender experience begins.

Two people and a child stand at counter at cafe.

Trader & Co. brings hearty, healthy food and delicious coffee to Yass. Photo: Trader & Co.

Trader & Co.

If you didn’t fill up in Murrumbateman, head to Trader & Co. where they’re serious about ethically sourced coffee and hearty, healthy meals. Opened as a social enterprise designed to give back to the community, owners Daniel and Toni Neuhaus have crafted a space that feels as home as your own lounge room.

On the menu you’ll find gems such as garlic mushrooms with crispy kale and feta, housemade granola, pumpkin, feta and sage rolls and seasonal salads.

Don’t fear though, if a weekend away is a chance to break out of your healthy eating routine, they have that covered with a classic bacon and egg roll, French toast with maple bacon and a loaded steak sanga with caramelised onion, Swiss cheese, pickled cabbage and beetroot jam.

Ross’s Relics

No trip to the country is complete without a deep dive into a weird and wonderful antiques store, and Ross’s Relics is just the ticket.

An old Singer sewing machine here, a 1970s chandelier there, a set of Victorian scales that you can envision on your kitchen counter, and a telephone that you definitely grew up with and somehow feel a little nostalgic for.

It might be a cliche to say that it’s an Aladdin’s cave, but a few hours lost in here and you might just walk away with your own genie.

Yass Historic Walk and Drive

Roman Mars, host of the world-famous podcast 99% Invisible, has a motto that you should ‘always read the plaque’, and in a country town like Yass, you should absolutely take this to heart.

Historic signage and plaques on buildings will open up new worlds and stories, and Yass has them in spades.

For the shortcut to finding the plaques, pop by the Yass Valley Visitor Information Centre and grab a map and guide and then follow the trail of blue plaques affixed to buildings for an illuminating historical experience.

Cooma Cottage

Once the home of explorer Hamilton Hume, Cooma Cottage is the perfect historic day out. Photo: National Trust of Australia NSW Facebook.

Cooma Cottage

If you find the history walk enlightening, then jump in the car and head back down the road to Cooma Cottage. Built in 1830, this historic homestead later became Hamilton Hume’s forever home. Living there from 1840 until his death in 1873, there was nowhere else Hume wanted to be than on his 100 acres of pastoral land in the Yass Valley.

As you wander around the cottage, which Hume had extended a number of times, note his writing table. This unassuming piece of furniture comes from the period in which Hume released a 70-page booklet amid his bitter public feud with his former expedition companion William Hovell. Seems they didn’t see eye to eye on who was leading who across Southern Australia.

The Australian Hotel

Back in town you’d be remiss not to visit a real country pub, and the Australian Hotel is a classic.

The front bar hasn’t suffered the heavy hands of modernisation; it’s just the locals, a few schooners of beer and a good yarn.

To the rear of the pub you’ll find the bistro with a mix of classics such as a steak sanga, an Aussie beef burger and three varieties of steak, including rump, porterhouse and scotch fillet. Of course there is a schnitty and a parmi, because no pub would be complete without those, but then there are modern dishes. A Korean chicken burger with gochujang is a surprise ring-in for a country pub, the confit pork belly with a pomme puree takes things to a classy place, and our vego friends aren’t forgotten with a veggie burger, mushroom burger, and some meatless pasta dishes such as the Napolitana.

Yazzbar

The eclectically cool Yazz Bar is the spot for afternoon drinks and live music into the night. Photo: Yazz Bar Facebook.

Yazz Bar

To wrap up your visit to the Yass Valley, a night out at Yazz Bar will see you clinking glasses in a venue that was rated by Gourmet Traveller Wines as one of the 50 best wine experiences in the world.

With festoon lights in the courtyard, bold art on the walls and a line-up of regular musicians, the vibe here is eclectically cool in just the right way.

In a location like this it would be a crime not to have an extensive menu of local wines, and they’ve definitely got you covered with names such as Long Rail Gully, Helm, Nick O’Leary, Clonakilla and Capital Wines.

For something a little more festive, grab one of their stunning cocktails, such as the gloriously purple number, Raining Cherries, that features Disaronno Amaretto, lemon juice, bitters, sugar and aquafaba.

Filled with locals, it’s one of those places that gives you a real sense for a town.

That’s just the tip of the iceberg for Yass; it’s a town that will have you staying a little longer, and having a few more wines than you planned and as you drive back out of the scenic valley you might just be planning a trip back.

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cannedbeeria12:03 pm 11 May 26

Thanks About Regional for highlighting this. What a wonderful town to spend some time in. I used to work sometimes in Yass, and I was always impressed with the history of the place. Plenty of “old buildings” with a history worth exploring.
Now think of Yass’ main street and how it used to be… Imagine a bar like the Yazz Bar in the days when semi trailers loaded with sheep or cattle, B-Doubles, all thudering pass while you sipped your favourite bev. Yass could never have “gentrified” the way it has while ever the main highway went through it. Same with Goulburn. Again a great place to visit or stay because it has been able to do what it did best. Be a classic Australian Country Town.
So how did this happen? Both towns were bypassed….. So people who wanted to stop and explore, could. And those that didn’t need to stop, weren’t channeled down the main street anyway.
Are you listening Braidwood and Bungendore?
(AND Murrumbateman!)

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