A feast for the senses at the Wharf Local at Tathra. Photo: Lisa Herbert.
A visit to the historic Tathra Wharf is like stepping back into a time more slow-paced, a time of chugging steamers loading livestock, and ladies off to the Sydney Show.
Still now, there are fisherpeople with rods leaning, terns swooping, cormorants heading out to sea, and the occasional plume from a breaching whale.
The Wharf Local is a cafe which has been run by Emma and Poppy Benton for 15 years, sitting in the old cargo shed atop the boards of this long-legged coastal wharf built in the 1860s, and which was recently renovated and reopened in 2024.
When entering you can’t help but focus on the views, but then your eyes are pulled in by the food displays – Honorbread sourdough loaves and pastries piled high, jams, flowers and foliage, croissants and cakes and biscuits, fruit and glass and ceramic vessels, the rolled blankets, the ceiling that feels like being under a timber boardwalk, the paintings and ceramic displays at the rear of the space, the various little clutches of timber chairs and tables.
You are met with warm greetings and assistance in deciding. Order an excellent ONA coffee or pot of organic Somage tea. And then there’s a little wait, which allows you, or forces you, to slow down and breathe.
From every window there are stunning views, birds and whales at Tathra Wharf Local. Photo: Lisa Herbert.
This is a slow-food eatery, so put your phone away and settle into your chairs, feel the ocean moving under your feet and stare out to a view that stretches hundreds of kilometres out over the ocean and north along the forest fringed coastline.
Perhaps a toasted sandwich made with Honorbread Fennel and Sultana loaf, Bega Butter and Heritage Cheese (IYKYK) plus handmade seville orange marmalade, a croissant with double smoked ham, bechamel and vintage cheese with mustard, or a cinnamon swirl – all arrive with a thriving herb garden as garnish.
“Well, we eat with our eyes,” says Emma. “Every morning we pick our garnishes and flowers, from the Community Garden in Tathra, or our own.”
There is also a Flathead Fish Burger, a Salt and Pepper Calamari Burger or a simple bowl of crunchy chips, to be enjoyed with a fresh juice, an organic soft drink or even a rosemary-garnished gin and tonic.
Emma says that every day is stunning here at the wharf. “It’s always amazing, every season. The whales, the marine life, the views out of every window, the variety of customers, the fishermen. There are few places you can deep-sea fish without a boat, and it’s accessible.
“We source and support local producers, grow as much as we can in local community gardens, plus customers bring in excess produce. Most popular are our hearty soups or our Chicken and Leek Pie, a generous frittata; it’s all good, simple food, well made. We bake a lot of our cakes. We both love baking and produce a lot of gluten free morsels like jam drops, friands, carrot cake. We have vegan goodies as well.
“Share tables encourage conversation and connection. We encourage people to come and unplug. So many customers come and sit for hours, decompress. For many locals the wharf has become their safe and quiet space.
“Even after 15 years it feels more like coming to our happy place than coming to work,” says Emma.
Once you’ve finished your meal, pop into the gallery. Photo: Lisa Herbert.
Inside the cafe is an art gallery and shop space. ‘The Essential Object’ started life years ago as Poppy’s shop in an old service station in the main street of Tathra, and is full of local artworks, ceramics, paintings and cards from creatives including Pip Marshman, Simon Bowley, Steve Sedgewick and Tanja Reise’s light shades.
The Wharf Local is fully licensed. Open Wednesday to Sunday from 8:30 am to 4 pm. During the warmer months there are occasional evening events with cocktails, shared plates and tunes from local DJs.
For information on food and events follow its social media @thewharflocal.
